Another week and another review! Prepared to be truly trousered, chaps, as we head over to the Big Apple for this weeks superb strides. From a small New York based company by the name of Thoroughstitch we have a pair of truly awesome chinos.
Never heard of Thoroughstich? Well, neither had I until I noticed them on Instagram, and from that moment I was paying close attention to what they were up to. Formed in 2010 they are a two-man team operating in New York City, using a local and competent menswear factory in the NYC garment district to produce their items. With a combined 20 years of experience in menswear and a shared passion for vintage clothing and modern clothes that are honestly made and with integrity, Thoroughstitch is their labour of love. The basis of the brand is to make great quality and interesting products in the US.
Their dedication will become apparent as you read on.
There aren’t a huge selection of garments this season, the chinos and a variety of shirts, and likely the range will be different, but not much larger next season. What they make is thoughtfully designed and their effort is clearly going into doing things right rather than producing a wide range. Check out their shirts for an idea of where this is going.
Am I alone in thinking that making a smaller range of really good pieces has to be a better way of doing business than desperately making a larger range of unremarkable and uninspired garments? Knocking out the same basic range in differing colours year after year? Sorry, I digress.
The style is a decidedly retro one, described as a “relaxed fit”. The waist is fitted, more space at the seat and thighs and a slight taper down the legs. The idea is a combination of vintage American WWII chinos and the “Ivy” style buckle-back chinos that the GIs would wear after they came home and went back to school. In the realm of style for dads I think this works very well!
The fabric used for these chinos is “Cramerton Army Cloth” by the long running mill Galey and Lord. Cramerton Army Cloth is a sanforized khaki twill that will break in over time and get even softer. Not that it’s not soft already, mind you, it’s superbly comfortable right out of the box. And we all love sanforized fabric for it’s lack of magical shrinking properties. Cramerton Army Cloth has been supplied to the military from the same mill since 1929 and it saw service as the standard basic uniform cloth in WWII and later wars, which also ties back to the 1940’s origin of the trousers.
The front has two regular, canvas lined pockets and a coin pocket, all with welted edges to ensure they will wear well. Notice how there are bar tacks at all stress points, such as pocket ends and belt loops, to avoid tearing.
The rear sees another pair of pockets, again with the welted edges and canvas lining, one of them buttoned. Also notice there are a total of 7 belt loops. This helps the waistband sit properly, whereas fewer loops can often lead to the waistband drooping below the belt. Excellent detailing!
We also have a working rear cinch, so you can chose whether to go for belt or no belt. The cinch has thoughtfully been placed so that if you wear a belt the cinch will be covered. The brass hardware used is also decently engineered, so once set the cinch should stay in place.
The buttons are melamine buttons, which look quite plain and unremarkable, but are the same buttons, from the same factory, that the US military has used since the 1940’s. Although utilitarian in look and feel, they work well, and once I became aware of their significance, I rather like them. They are said to be incredibly durable, tolerating extreme pressure and heat. Buttonholes are well made as well, and any seams that would be left rough have been taped. Tidy.
All seams, including inseam and outseam are flat felled and double stitched, very tidy work indeed and a clear indicator of the dedication that has gone into making these trousers. Chainstitching gives the seams a little bit of stretch and will age nicely. The quality of the sewing work makes for durability and comfort.
Touches like the military-style hand-stamped sizing are very nice. Again hinting at the source of inspiration.
Info printed on the inside of the cotton canvas pocket. Again, very much a touch of the military. Having my birthday as one of the dates printed is extra cool!
In summary I feel that for the price asked, the Thoroughstich chinos deliver more than can be expected. At a price point where you’ll expect to find most brands offering their chinos of quite average and unremarkable quality, Thoroughstitch really goes the extra mile. And includes worldwide shipping in their price. Truly impressive.
And they even include a spare button or two in a small envelope. Perfect!
I have inside word that for AW14 they are doing a CPO shirt in Harris Tweed. No prizes for guessing whether or not I have a pre-order in place!
I measure the waist on these to 34″, so 2″ larger than the stated size. Be aware of this and double-check before ordering. A relaxed fit can be far too relaxed! These 32’s fit me perfectly, I just need to hem the legs an inch.
- Fabric – USA
- Trousers – USA
Score (1-5, 3 being average):
- Assembly: 5
- Details: 5
- Quality: 5
- Value for money: 5
- Cool-factor: 5